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I learned that the south Indian spice mix podi – a rubble of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

14 ounces waxy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
2 garlic cloves, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml flavorless oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then drain them and let them dry from steam for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for a short while, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Skewer the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – if desired, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a container. Turn on the grill to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more sea salt and the sauce on the side for serving.